Singapore (SIN) – Desaru/Ayer Hitam/Simpang Lenggam/Pontian

Desaru was much hyped in the 80s with quite a few mega projects aimed at attracting foreign investment and visitors, which have since been abandoned. Today, it’s strictly a local affair with the occasional Singaporeans thrown in: there are no chic boutiques, fancy restaurants or hip nightlife spots, just 22 kilometers of beach and a few aging resorts.

Desaru Coast is the first premium integrated destination resort with projects taken off with the opening of The Els Club Champion golf course, Waterpark Adventure, Riverside & 4 five star hotels due to open in 2019 – The Westin , Hard Rock Hotel , One & Only & Anantara Resort & Villas.

To Do

Desaru is not a well developed resort, but there are a lot of things to do while you are there. Take advantage of the nice wide beach, and of the shallow and clear water. All 22 km of it is open to all, even the stretches in front of the hotels, but most locals congregate at the public beach, which provides a carpark, a few barbeque pits and grotty toilets. There is a small stall selling drinks while the car park has an entrance fee for vehicles. Motorbikes is 1RM based on 21Sep2013 visit.

Snorkeling is a good option, but don’t expect banks of colorful fishes and wonderful sea creatures. Scuba diving here is out of the question, although some of the resorts do arrange trips out to Johor’s northern islands.

One thing you can definitely try is surfing. If wind is good, the waves are quite OK, and especially the lack of jellyfish and sharks makes it an attractive location. During December, January and first half of February (monsoon season), the waves are almost constantly high, but do expect the water to be a little cold. There is a company that rents surf boards for 20 RM/h and provides surf lessons for 100 RM. The same company rents jetskis.

Excursions to see the fireflies (api-api) in the Sungei Lebam river are very popular. While theoretically possible to arrange yourself, this would require bumping about dirt roads to find the dock and then cruising around a pitch-black jungle river, so it’s much easier to join one of the hotel excursions. The best time to go is after rain on a new moon.

To Buy

The Tanjung Belungkor ferry terminal has no exchange facilities, but the hotels will change money in a pinch, and most shops and restaurants will accept Singapore dollars at a 1:3 ratio. You can find an ATM at the Petronas gas station at the highway 90 turnoff to Desaru. However if you mainly stay in your hotel and only go for the hotel excursions, you can basically bill everything to your room and pay by credit card.

At the public beach, there are a couple of stores selling soft drinks, beer and the sort, but you can find a store that sells branded t-shirts, Malay batiks and souvenirs.

SKS Mall has basic household stores , local clothing , electrical gadgets, foodcourt (local food) and grocery store. Watson & Mr.DIY is available in this local mall.

To Eat

You’re pretty much stuck eating at your resort restaurants, which may have limited choices and are expensive. Even if you want to try the restaurant of the next resort, it can be a long distance to walk there.

However, if you have your own wheels or join one of the hotel-arranged “excursions”, the fishing village of Sungai Rengit, some 30 km away, has a few seafood restaurants. (Oddly, the much closer Tanjung Balau does not have any.) There are also a few basic restaurants in Bandar Penawar.

• Medan Selera Desa Food Court, (Desaru Holiday Chalets, next to public beach). Simple restaurant with a few outdoor stalls (hence “food court”) serving up Malay basics like fried rice and Ramly burgers. Simple, tasty and cheap. RM 1 5. 
• Terminal Cafe, (Tanjung Belungkor Ferry Terminal). Another simple, friendly little eatery dishing out Malay favorites, located in the ferry terminal building (look for the signs to “Canteen”). The nasi ayam (chicken rice) is excellent. RM 5. 
• Riverside adjacent to the thrilling Desaru Adventure Waterpark.Choose from a whole list of food to satisfy your tastebuds from local and international delicacies.